Banding can be a sign of all kinds of issues. I start with a good manual cleaning of the capping station and printhead area. Then I will pour solution into my capping station cap, and pull it through with a syring to insure the capping station is clean and free of clogs. After performing those basic steps, I will perform a short cleaning and run a nozzle test. (wait 5 minutes between cleanings to allow ink to settle) Then run a 2nd short cleaning then a second nozzle test. I then compare the two tests to see if I might have clogged nozzles. That's where I start

That is a new control panel it’s identical to the old.

Ant, As far as I know all the DX5 heads are 8 channel heads (meaning if it is a DX5 it has 8 dampers) As far as the pin set up, you can use any 30 pin flat cable with any 30 pin head. Locked vs Unlocked....from my experience a LOCKED head will only work correctly on a mainboard that has the original EEPROM written to it. So, if you have a locked head, that means you will need to write the EEPROM on the main board to match that head. If you have a unlocked head, it should work on any system. So, if you have a 8 channel DX5 head, that is "locked" , you will need to keep it with the SAME mainboard that the manufacturer shipped it with, or use the adjustment program to "backup" the EEPROM data, then write that EEPROM to the mainboard your head is going to be hooked up to. The firing parameters, head id and ALOT of other info are stored in the EEPROM data, that information is what controls the way your head functions on Epson based systems. If you are not using a EPSON based system, but already have a Epson head on the system, then that means that your head is unlocked, and you will need an unlocked head to replace it. Many systems use Epson heads but are not Epson based machines, like Mutoh or even some Roland's. Almost all of the DTF and DTG systems use Epson heads and MOST are Epson based , meaning they have Epson mainboards and Epson print frames. I have no idea why ALOT of the DTG / DTF companies come out of Florida, it's funny you mention it tho. I hope any of that info is helpful.

That's great! We've done all of those steps as of today. We ran cleaner through all of the ink lines and wetcapped it over the holiday weekend. We can see that the lines are very faint, but they are still there. Our nozzle checks look perfect. I didn't know it was possible, but we have Ricoh stumped, lol!

Ok, I can see in the PDF quick view that the artwork is not centered on the PDF page.

scale the image down in the print dialogue when sending to print, or choose "fit on page" option when setting up the print, see if that helps. Otherwise you will need to open the original artwork file, and center the artwork on the page then save as a PDF again

Look at the left side...you can see it is off exactly the amount that your print is off

Cn you send a screen shot of the actual design? I want to see what isn't printing?